By Marcus Escartin

Many Outer Richmond businesses have been landmark hotspots for decades. Establishments like Mandalay Restaurant and Schubert’s Bakery have cultivated an inviting environment, bringing food and community to the area.

When Khan Toke Thai House opened in 1976 on Geary Boulevard near 24th Avenue, it established itself as a local hotspot for nearly half a century.

However, the COVID-19 pandemic left its mark on Khan Toke and the Outer Richmond District. The neighborhood saw many longtime establishments either shut down or rebrand to survive. The district’s energy shifted as a result of COVID, with a mix of opportunity and uncertainty for both old and new businesses.

In August, Khan Toke’s owner Phiphat Pornkanjanavong decided it was time to close its doors, after serving the Outer Richmond for almost 50 years. After seeing how COVID shifted the way that people eat together, Pornkanjanavong decided to close down their shop and open a new, more modern thai resturant for the neighborhood.

Rice & Shine, on Geary Boulevard near the corner of 23rd Avenue, opened in late September.

Pornkanjanavong said they saw the move as a strategic shift in the establishment’s future, as they realized people want something fast and that their previous business model was not working.

“We made the shift in style…because the old style was not doing well with COVID”, Pornkanjanavong said.

“It wasn’t about starting over. It was about making the food the same, while making it accessible, in a way cleaner, due to COVID,” Pornkanjanavong said.

The closure showed the difficulty in running a business in the post-pandemic climate in the Outer Richmond, amidst the shift in family eating styles, rising costs of rent and labor, combined with months of financial pressure during the pandemic.

“There were financial issues during COVID that also led to the closure and rebranding of Khan Toke Thai House,” Pornkanjanavong said.

This placed pressure on Pornkanjanavong to change their model to cater to being more economically flexible.

“People want something fast,” Pornkanjanavong said.

The new design style of Rice & Shine feels modern and inviting to customers of all ages.

Local behavioral therapist Farra Naderi, 23, said she misses the traditional feeling of Thai culture from Khan Toke, with their iconic floor seating, in the new Rice & Shine establishment.

“The Thai House felt more immersive than the Rice & Shine spot,” Naderi said. “But, Rice & Shine is fast.”

The restaurant’s differences are visible from the entrance. While Khan Toke greeted you with dim lighting and traditional floor seating, Rice & Shine, while still achieving a warm setting, strips away a layer of cultural immersion. The new layout emphasizes accessibility over culture with a fast sit-down time.

A notable shift is also on its menu. While Khan Toke offered more classic Thai lunch and dinner dishes, Rice & Shine blends American breakfast with Thai dishes.

“The new Rice & Shine feels more up-to-date and quicker, although it doesn’t carry the same nostalgia,” Naderi said. Khan Toke used to be, she said, her favorite spot to go for Thai food in the City.

“Watching one of my all-time favorite Thai spots go was not fun, but after COVID, it totally makes sense to look for other ways to keep business afloat. People are used to fast meals.”

This post-pandemic rebranding is not confined to the Richmond District. Throughout the City, several restaurants have rebranded or relaunched with new names in the years following the lockdown, including Kis Café rebranding into Bosque in Hayes Valley, Beretta’s relaunch in the Mission and Flour + Water Pizzeria’s shift to Yellow Moto Pizzeria.

The loss of Khan Toke Thai House is more than just an end to a restaurant, but a shift in the neighborhood’s identity.

Rice & Shine is located at 5830 Geary Blvd. and is open every day of the week from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. For more information, visit riceshinesf.com.