By Clarisse Kim

The New Taraval Cafe experience, according to owner Stanley Lui, is pretty straightforward.

When customers enter the small, charming, hole-in-the-wall restaurant, they are instantly hit with the smell of home. The hiss of sizzling patties and pillowy pancake steam waft through the air. Other customers are happily chatting with each other over cups of coffee and across aisles, the gaps across tables ignored. The atmosphere is one of comfort and of warmth, of routine, lazy-weekend brunch and classic diner bustle.

“The New Taraval Cafe experience is straightforward: Walk in, take a seat, and chow down on a hearty dish on the menu,” Lui explained. “Simple. Easy. Delicious.”

However, the philosophy and history behind the storefront is anything but straightforward.

Lui’s history with the New Taraval Cafe spans around 30 years. His story began in the early 1990s, when his parents, who immigrated from China decades before, bought the restaurant. As the diner grew under his parents’ ownership, Lui began to grow a deep appreciation for the communities supporting him.

“I have a huge family out here, and they taught me to prize how I interact with people,” Lui states. “There are always 30 to 40 people showing up every Thanksgiving to catch up over a meal. That is my community.”

Inspired by the sheer diversity and quality of food in San Francisco, Lui started cooking when he was about 15 years old. Lui took over the New Taraval Cafe in 2011, determined to foster this same sense of family with his diner.

“I needed the community to be a centerpiece of my business,” Lui said.

According to Lui, the baseline of this care starts with the food. New Taraval Cafe is known for its classic diner staples, like pancakes, omelets and burgers. Lui’s personal favorite is the decadent French toast. Other fan favorites include Lui’s fresh-baked cookies and the full Irish breakfast.

After all, the diner caters to the prominent Irish community in the Sunset. Major gems on the menu include staple foods like corned beef hash, pork bangers, black-and-white pudding and Irish bacon.

“The baseline is good food, but you need to show that you care,” Lui said.

From giving customers a warm welcome to engaging patrons in casual conversation, Lui wants to make the diner feel like a second home.

“Within my restaurant, I try to take care of everybody that I can,” Lui said. “It would not be strange for me to come join you and just have a seat with you as you’re enjoying your meal. I want to get to know everyone here.”

The diner constantly welcomes customers of all ages through its doors, though Lui has a particular soft spot for the older patrons. Some regulars have dined at the New Taraval Cafe since Lui’s parents first owned the corner spot decades before – some customers have even entered the cafe as strangers and returned for years after as friends.

“I have a lot of older customers where the restaurant is the centerpoint of their day,” Lui said. “They can come in and just socialize and be a part of the community. I’m happy to support them however I can.”

Lui’s favorite story is one of three long-time regulars: Jim, Tom and Guido.

“They have been dining here for almost our entire time in business,” Lui said. “I remember as a kid coming in the morning with my parents, and these three would come in separately, have their meals, and head off for the rest of their days.”

Over the years, the trio became friends, migrating from their separate tables into one communal booth, where they frequented as regulars for almost three decades.

“They began spending their mornings together with us,” Lui said. “It was incredibly fun to have them at our counters.”

Although a member of the trio has since passed, their magic still lingers in the sizzling-bacon charm of the diner. The New Taraval Cafe serves as a community hub. Customers are encouraged to bring friends and build new relationships over a plate of eggs or a basket of fries.

“If you come in and sit at the counter, you’re definitely making some new friends,” Lui said.

These stories are what makes Lui’s job so meaningful. According to Lui, the community has made running the diner an experience, not a job. Fostering connections have helped him remain positive throughout ongoing ambient construction and the constant ups-and-downs to running a small business.

“I get to enjoy this with everyone that comes through,” Lui said. “At the end of the day, I get to see my regulars almost every day, over many years. I know I’ll get to have these conversations all the time. It doesn’t feel like work.”

Lui hopes the New Taraval Cafe can foster more of the same Tom, Jim, and Guido magic in the future.

“Coming into this place now, I really get how much people care about this diner,” Lui said, “This place isn’t just for me. It’s a space where the entire neighborhood can come together. I want to continue being that community hub.”

New Taraval Cafe is located at 1054 Taraval St. Learn more at newtaravalcafe.com.