By Sean Rinn

“It really is a dream opportunity for a wine director to be able to have a program like that and have someone who trusts you and lets you run free. It’s amazing,” said wine director Joseph DiGrigoli. 

Kitchen Istanbul’s owner Emrah Kilicoglu’s trust in DiGrigoli is well warranted. Since DiGrigoli has taken over the wine program, he has brought it to incredible heights – attracting significant recognition for Kitchen Istanbul, which was recently nominated as a semi-finalist for the prestigious James Beard award for its best wine and other beverages program. 

How did a cozy Turkish restaurant on Clement Street build a buzzing wine program? It comes from Kitchen Istanbul’s owner’s philosophy of providing customers with an incredible bargain and valuing the people behind the product. 

“The most liberating thing is to work with low markups. You get to give guests access to things they wouldn’t have access to at other restaurants,” DiGrigoli said.

With 375 wines available, and probably closer to four or five hundred according to DiGrigoli, Kitchen Istanbul’s collection is vast. But that does not mean there is any sacrifice in quality. The restaurant’s criteria for selecting wines are simple, but meaningful.

“The most important thing is the wine itself,” DiGrigoli said. “The number one thing to me is that the wine is good, that it’s made by somebody who cares a lot and is doing awesome things. The second thing, and this is something I think a lot of people overlook, is that it’s more important to pair the wine to the guests than the food.”

The wine program strives to serve outstanding wine that exceeds the expectations of the guest. Kitchen Istanbul offers a three-glass wine progression. Some people want it to compliment the flavors of the food, whereas others may prefer three red wines. 

“Whether you’re somebody who is like ‘Hey, I just want a glass that tastes good. I don’t want to think about it, and I want to enjoy my meal,’ or if you are somebody for whom wine is equal to or more of a draw than the food, then I want to give you something super exciting that’s going to dictate the meal,” DiGrigoli said. 

DiGrigoli takes his craft seriously. To him, it is his duty to put something in front of the customer that they are going to love, regardless of the customer’s familiarity with wine.

“I’m never going to tell them, ‘Actually, with starters you should have a white wine.’ If that’s what you like, that’s what you like,” he said. “I look for opportunities to push people down the path, expand their boundaries. I’m not here to brow beat anybody.”

What is so refreshing about Kitchen Istanbul is that it welcomes you with open arms, making wine less intimidating. DiGrigoli recognizes that wine is not an approachable category for most people because the wine industry does not do a good enough job educating consumers. He tries making it fun by meeting the customer where they are at; whether they are “a total wine sicko or just trying to learn.”

DiGrigoli’s presence in the restaurant’s culture can be felt beyond his great service and personable approach. He keeps things lighthearted and fun at Kitchen Istanbul, which is evident from the cheeky “you know what hummus is” description for hummus on the main menu. 

“It makes people feel like they’re part of the club,” DiGrigoli said. 

Kilicoglu welcomed DiGrigoli into his club after the two became friends in 2020. DiGrigoli was a regular at Kitchen Istanbul because it was his favorite restaurant. Their friendship evolved to the point where Kilicoglu asked DiGrigoli to help out with his wine program on Friday nights while he was still working at Quince, a three Michelin Star, renowned San Francisco restaurant.

A couple of weeks later, DiGrigoli was offered the full-time role as wine director, giving him complete creative control. 

“Having somebody who trusts that you know whatever weird decision you might make is going to make sense, who believes in your palette – I couldn’t ask for more,” he said.

The atmosphere at Kitchen Istanbul is marvelous because you can feel the genuine care in the philosophy of the service, the wine program and the cooks using their talents in the kitchen. It is refreshing to experience something that is backed by the belief in human beings’ abilities to create something special. Putting value in the people behind the craft reaps dividends. 

Another cool aspect of Kitchen Istanbul is that it has its own monthly wine club with two options to choose from. Option one for $95 gives the customer a three-bottle mix of Kitchen Istanbul’s current favorites from California and the rest of the world. Option two offers four bottles for $175 with the promise of being cellar worthy – and always includes one bottle of champagne. Hand selected by DiGrigoli, the club boxes are guided by the ideology of the restaurant.

“It’s the exact same philosophy as picking the wines for the restaurant,” DiGrigoli said. “How can we give people the most value? I think if you’re excited about what you drink in the restaurant, you’ll be happy with what you get in the club.”

In terms of the menu, the food is just as welcoming as the staff. The dishes can be enjoyed by all kinds of people. The menu is friendly to those with dietary restrictions, vegetarians, vegans and gluten-free diners alike. The food is also a hit with families, as kids have responded positively to the homey, comforting and healthy blend of Turkish flavors and fresh Californian ingredients.  

Similarly to the wine, the menu is driven by ingredients of great quality and executed by excellent cooks who make each dish with honesty and dedication. 

“I think the best thing on our menu right now is our Adana Kebob, which is sensational. I think the pistachio salad is among the best salads in the City. I think we continue to put out great food, and we do fried chicken every Wednesday,” DiGrigoli said.

Fried Chicken Wednesdays, known as KIFC (Kitchen Istanbul Fried Chicken) night, originated when one of the chefs named Büşra would make it for the staff’s family meal. The entire staff loved it so much, they had to carve out space for it on the menu. The yogurt-marinated chicken seasoned with Turkish spices was a big hit since its debut, earning its right to stay on the menu for the foreseeable future. 

Head on down to Kitchen Istanbul to experience one of the country’s best available wine programs complemented by deliciously fresh Turkish cuisine that is truly a delight. 

Kitchen Istanbul is located at 349 Clement St. Learn more at kitchenistanbulsf.com