By Clarisse Kim

Walking into Paul’s Hat Works on Geary Boulevard in the Outer Richmond is like walking through a time portal into the past.

Vintage hat boxes are piled up to the ceiling. Photos and newspaper clippings from the 1900s adorn the walls. Classy piano music floats through the leather-scented air.

Paul’s Hat Works, a more-than-a-century-old hat shop, has been operating since 1918. This month marks a special milestone for the latest owner, Abbie Dwelle. In June, Dwelle will have run the small business for 15 years.

“My friends and I first apprenticed with the prior owner, Michael Harris, in 2009,” Dwelle said. “I later took over the entire store by myself in 2014, and now it’s 2023! Time flies.”

Dwelle said she was first drawn to Paul’s Hat Works because of its “rich history in SF.” According to Dwelle, the shop has remained constant throughout a century’s worth of change.

“There are all these parts of San Francisco that have always been there. Everything around it changes and evolves, but it stays the same,” she said. “Being here and helping to support this place is like being one of those anchors in time.”

The hat store’s history began with Napoleon “Paul” Marquez, who founded the store in 1918. The business has been passed down over four generations of apprentices. Dwelle is the latest “anchor” and owner of Paul’s Hat Works. As the current master hatter, she is in charge of almost all shop duties, from store upkeep to crafting the hats themselves. She currently has one other employee and is mentoring an apprentice.

Dwelle said her favorite part of her job is the craftsmanship that is needed to create each hat. At its core, Paul’s Hat Works focuses on collaborating with the customer throughout the entire hat-making period. Dwelle works personally with every client to customize each piece – a process that takes months.

According to Dwelle, Paul’s Hat Works has been fine-tuning its original crafting method over the decades: rounds of blocking and steaming. This allows her to ensure the hat’s durability and to shape the hat to perfectly fit the customer’s head.

“When you steam the fibers, you can manipulate them into a different shape. When the hat cools, it remembers the shape,” Dwelle said. “Each fiber has memory. We use materials with stronger memory, so that they’ll last longer.”

She also mentions that the tools and knowledge have been collected since the beginning and are passed down from master to apprentice. She continues to use the same equipment from prior generations, including the conformateur and the formillion, to measure the customer’s exact head shape.

“It’s not very common to have the shape variety in (commercial hat stores). This is where shops like mine come in. We measure down to the millimeter,” Dwelle says.

However, Dwelle adds that this method has its drawbacks. As the master hatter, she has to work with her employee and apprentice every step of the crafting process.

“Custom-only hats are a lot of work,” she said. “Every single hat comes with fittings, and specialty shapes and sizes, so they take longer to make.”

The labor-intensive cycle requires a strict work schedule that is hard to orchestrate alongside the duties of a small business owner. The high investment needed to produce every hat, coupled with pandemic pressure, declining demands and a smaller financial cushion, has required Dwelle to raise prices.

“It’s one of the hardest things about running a small business,” she said. “I wish I could make hats for all price points, but it’s just not feasible.”

Fortunately, the community has helped her get through these tough times. According to Dwelle, getting to know each customer’s story has been one of the most meaningful parts about running her business. Throughout her years of ownership, Dwelle has developed strong ties with the Richmond District and is thankful for the neighborhood’s support.

“It’s amazing how people want us to stay here, so they’re willing to pay the price.” Dwelle says, “When people buy my hats that I poured my blood, sweat and tears into, it really shows me that I’m not alone.”

Looking back at the store’s history with the City, Dwelle marvels at the wonder this community has brought her.

“I’m grateful for the support in helping keep this place open in the same place as it’s been,” Dwelle said. “Having someone come into your store and see all the love you put into something, and have them appreciate the material and technique, their gratitude and respect. It’s the best feeling ever.”

Paul’s Hat Works is located at 6128 Geary Blvd. For more information, go to hatworksbypaul.com or call 415-221-5332.